DAY 12 REFUGIO GREY
With the new day and my body well rested, I started out for Refugio Grey. It was 11kms away, but I had booked a bed with full board so I carried the least possible in my day pack. The wind is a constant presence in Patagonia and in this area it is particularly acute. I found a large walking stick, a remnant of some unknown tree, and headed slowly but surely to my sleeping place for the night.

I had given myself the better part of the day to arrive and with the sun up until 10pm there was no need to rush. The persistent headwinds made a quick ramble difficult anyway and some of the paths required rock scrambling, but the way was well marked and for the most part fairly easy to manage. The stick proved to be a faithful companion. About 4kms into the walk I got my first glimpse of a massive glacier in the distance, but small ice floes had already arrived in the lake below.

Since arriving at the refugio the day before, my encounters with other foreigners was no longer unusual. This was the multi-national land of hikers with mostly european origin. Many hiked in line while their walking poles moved along side in synchronization like the wheels of locomotive trains. The pace was often rapid and their gaze ahead indicated a purpose of stride like an efficient machine.

When I arrived at the refugio grey, I was tired but content. This refugio is smaller in scale than refugio grand paine and decorated with wood and care. After a brief rest, I walked up to the massive glacier grey, face to face.