Accordian player in Cefalú playing the theme to “The Godfather.”
14 June to 14 July
The last time I spent a month traveling around Sicily, I was hitch-hiking with a friend. It was decades ago. I left with memories of an old man driving a donkey-cart filled with apricots on a back road, of hauntingly beautiful towns deserted during the afternoons and remaining quiet before and afterwards, of generous, warm people who still retained their traditions (I’d met a young man who’d been forced to marry his girlfriend after they accidentally fell asleep and spent the night together.) And I remember a spectacular rocky coast and pristine sea.
Cefalú: vendor displaying his beach blankets.Cefalú: a popular tourist destination. People flock to see the Cathedral’s mosaics and enjoy the sandy beaches.
I had trepidation in seeing the Sicily of today. I feared bearing witness to soul-altering “progress,” but the pull to return proved stronger.
I rented a car in Palermo, bought a road map and guide of Sicily and set off on the coast towards the east and the city of Cefalú. I’d heard horror stories about the drivers here, but found them mostly respectful and the roads relatively quiet (my being accustomed to NYC drivers and streets may account for this).
But my departure from Palermo presented some challenges. I managed a full city tour while attempting to find the highway and within minutes the skies opened up. I was soon driving through a torrential downpour on a flooded coastal route with limited visibility. Fortunately it was the only bad weather I encountered for the month.
During my usual travels, I prefer to stay in one place for several days or more. Here I tended to hop-scotch from place to place. (The exception was a week stay on the island of Marettimo.) I favored the coast, but was happy to visit the “mountain” towns and central farm lands where tourism is often in its infancy or hasn’t yet arrived.
Hamlet of Petralia Soprana: like many of the small towns the population is dwindling, but here tourism is expanding.Petralia SopranaA farm stay in Nicosia: I was the only guest. The father gave me a tour of the animals including these rare Girgentean goats with exquisite twisting horns. The female’s had been cut. They were growing improperly and jeopardizing her life.
Sleepy towns, whose beauty had dazzled me, like Ragusa Ibla, Noto, and Siracusa are now major tourist destinations with all the trimmings: Michelin-starred restaurants, upscale hotels, tee-shirt and trinket shops, and electric tourist trains that wind in and out of the narrow streets. It was a stark contrast to the towns I’d known, but that’s not to say they were devoid of charm. And the influx of funds has been used to restore buildings, previously in disrepair, to their original glory.
Siracusa’s Baroque Cathedral on the Piazza del DuomoSiracusa looking onto Ortygia: where open plazas lead to ancient alleyways offering atmosphere and numerous gelato shops.Orecchio of Dionisio (Dionysus’ ear), named by Caravaggio. Allegedly the tyrant Dionysus used the perfect acoustics to eavesdrop on his prisoners, incarcerated there.Siracusa’s Fontana Aretusa. It supplied the city with fresh water in ancient times and hasn’t yet run dry.Greek theater in Siracusa: the summer theater festival was in full swing. The original seats were covered with wood for the spectators.Production of the Greek tragedy “Hercules” appropriately performed in an ancient Greek theater: SiracusaBaroque town of Noto was almost entirely rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in 1693. It has, in the past few decades, been transformed from a struggling city into a vibrant cultural center.
And was pleased to see a burgeoning art scene in unexpected places.
Working Salt Mine/Art Gallery MACSS in Raffa founded by Enzo Rinaldi, an artist who eschews the title, and whose medium of choice is nails. He was my gracious guide to the mine and eccentric, hand-built home where he admitted that he drives the motorcycle parked outside fast- very fast.Photology’s exhibit “Art is in the Air” curated by Gino Gianuizzi. I was fortunate to have him as my extremely informative guide. It was quite difficult to find the site: my three attempts, including the following of a farmer driving his tractor finally paid off. I was the only visitor.“PUBLICPRIVATE” at the “Art is in the Air” exhibition, Photology, outside Noto“Art is in the Air”Photos by Gianfranco Gorgoni of iconic earthworks in Photology
The history of Sicily is rich and varied and its economy has evolved through the ages. Remnants of its once thriving tuna industry remain.
Vendicari Natural Reserve outside of Noto and abandoned tuna fishery.The very pleasant, picturesque city of Modica famous for its unique and delicious chocolate.Rearranging a heart of rice left from a weddingFriends in Modica
My trip incorporated a return to certain places and largely places I’d never been.
Scicli: a beautiful town still relatively unknown, but on the cusp of becoming a major tourist destination.Proud artist in front of his creation, ScicliChildren in ScicliSelf-taught sculptor in ScicliUbiquitous cats and hanging laundry are seen throughout SicilyA simple laundry lineRagusa Ibla: I passed by this town during my first visit decades ago. The setting sun was reflecting in the windows. It created an indelible image of extraordinary beauty. It was not to be repeated, but it remained a strong incentive for my return.An artist in Ragusa Ibla carrying on the tradition of carriage painting in his studio. Interestingly, the opera I saw in Palermo, Cavalleria Rusticana, is a commonly used motif.Macchia Foresta Fiume Irminio Natural Reserve outside of Ragusa. A beautiful stretch of pristine coast and where I found my “Neo-lithic” rock. The reserve’s museum attendant did not share my enthusiasm.My “Neo-lithic” rockSea sculpture: Macchia Foresta Fiume Irminio Natural ReserveSnack shack at Punta Secca and hometown of the beloved fictional detective “Salvo Montelbano” played by the same actor these past 20 years. The series is based on the books of prolific writer Andrea CamilleriSmall beach town of Punta SeccaThe innovative artists’ community Farm Cultural Park built on the site of a dilapidated neighborhood in Favara (a previously impoverished town.) It began with the vision of a couple in 2010 and has since brought renown and resources to the community.Farm Cultural ParkTurkish Steps outside of AgrigentoTurkish Steps“Icarus” and the “Tempio della Concordia” in AgrigentoFestival in SciaccaSciacca, SicilyNew York City themed amusement park in SciaccaSciacca fairA pause from the fair: SciaccaThe narrow streets of Mazara Dello Vallo’s “Casbah”. The alleys are decorated with hand-painted tiles and frescoes.The ancient Greek bronze sculpture: Dancing Satyr. It was found in 1997 by Sicilian fishermen off the coast of Tunisia. After painstaking restoration it is on display in Mazara del ValloThere seems to be two kinds of cats in Sicily: male and pregnant. Residents appear to enjoy the flourishing of the feline population. Food is readily left outside for them.Trapani saltpans and windmills
My week on Marettimo, one of the Egadi islands, was a highlight. It was a welcome respite from the busy towns and dependency on a car. Marettimo is virtually a car-free island. I hiked, ate delicious blackberry “granita,” and was befriended by locals who invited me to an unforgettable, animated evening where discussions rose to loving shouting matches and the fresh seafood we dined on was elevated to an exquisite culinary art.
My hike along the coast to Punta Troia on Marettimo, then up to the castle for a splendid view.Making my way to Marettimo’s summit only to turn back meters from the top. A very thick fog, completely limiting my visibility, was quickly rolling in.Marettimo harborThe castle/prison of Punta Troia on MarettimoMarettimoThe empty streets of Marettimo during siesta. Bicycles are left unlocked.
I used Marettimo as a base to visit the nearby, and more touristy, yet lovely islands of Favignana and Levanzo. However, I was always happy to return home again.
Rusted anchors from fishing boats on Favignana:an Egadi Island.Boats from the once thriving tuna industry on Favignana.Tuna processing plant on Favignana converted into museum. Our guide had worked there and told his stories with passion. Unfortunately he only spoke Sicilian.Levanzo Island: an Egadi Island
Returning to Trapani where I’d left the car in public parking, led to a minor adventure. The car was no longer there. Theft came to mind, but my wits prevailed-after voicing some choice expletives-and sought assistance in a nearby hotel. The kind receptionist informed me that during my absence there had been the city’s annual street fair. She then spent considerable time investigating the situation for me. My ill-placed car had been towed. After paying the 56€ fine, I was relieved to be united with the vehicle and the belongings I’d left behind. But the car was covered in dust. I joked with the attendant that the fine should include a car wash. I tried cleaning it with the windshield wipers, but the cleaning fluid wasn’t coming out. He disappeared for a moment, returned with a bottle of water, and poured it on my windshield. With clean windows I was ready to hit the road.
I made my way up, up, up to the nearby splendid medieval town Erice. There I indulged in a divine almond pastry, relieved that my car-towing adventure was over.
Performer in the beautiful hilltop town of EriceSan Capo de Vito is extremely popular/very touristy in the summer months. It boasts a long sandy beach, as opposed to the much more common pebble or rocky beaches.
I headed to the beach and found it in full summer swing. After spending one night in San Capo de Vito I was ready to move on.
Fortunately I found a wonderful B&B in Scopello. It’s a lovely, tiny town neighboring the stunning, quiet Zingaro Natural Reserve, and only an hour outside of Palermo.
A remnant of the thwarted effort to build a coastal road through what is now the Zingaro Natural Reserve. Public protests prevailed.Natural Reserve of ZingaroTown dog in Scopello taking a snooze.My dusty feet along a path in the Zingaro Natural Reserve. It was my last stop before returning to Palermo.
During the month, I didn’t see any donkey-carts and I’m not sure if a couple’s inadvertent overnight stay would still result in a shot-gun wedding, but the rocky coasts, pristine waters, generosity and warmth of the people remain.
When I was in Sicily, during my college years, I don’t recall if I’d made it to Palermo. I’d thrown out the journal I’d kept then-too many growing pains to relive while I was still living them. But the Palermo I saw now wouldn’t be familiar anyway.
La Kalsa, a once notorious neighborhood, is being gentrified
La Kalsa, a neighborhood so impoverished that Mother Theresa set up a mission there, now has swanky restaurants and wine bars. Other neighborhoods have followed suit. Poverty has not been eradicated, but like the mafia, hard-fought battles to dissolve it have been won.
The cathedral is a “must see” for its exterior. But I enjoyed seeing the families inside. The young man in the middle, extremely polite and intelligent, expressed great interest in my phone. He knew far more about it than I do.A narrow street and the ever present laundry in the historic center of Palermo
The assassinations of magistrates Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino in 1992, among countless others, by the mafia, who were the focus of their efforts, stirred the people of Palermo, supported by its mayor, into protests and fighting back. It marked the beginning of the end of the mafia’s seemingly invincible power. Memorials of the mafia’s victims are seen throughout Palermo and Sicily. The mafia remains a potent interest amongst tourists. But the residents, except those selling “The Godfather” tee-shirts, seemingly prefer to honor the fallen while leaving their painful past behind.
Maker/seller of the classic coppola cap.A palace converted into condos: one of which was the apartment I rented.
The difficulties residents face, like unemployment, are not readily apparent. Markets are bustling, cafes are busy, groups of men and women-rarely together-chat contentedly in public.
Mercato della VucciriaMercato della VuccariaMercato di Ballaró: Vendors attract shoppers by singing- very loudly. A few should consider a career in the opera.
And the arts are thriving. This year Palermo is hosting the European biennial of contemporary art and was chosen as the Italian Capital of Culture 2018.
Puppet showChildren enjoying a puppet show.Site-specific performance telling the moving tales of 15th century women living in the Santa Caterina convent-often not of their own accord. The convent was only opened recently for the first time to the public. Cloistered nuns lived there up until a few years ago.The magnificent Teatro Massimo.I was fortunate to see at the theatre an opera and silent film accompanied by live orchestra.Public art by the seaStreetfood is the pride of the city. A stall by the sea.Friggitoria “Chiluzzo” is known for its chickpea fritters with eggplant on bread. It’s not light, but it is very tasty.
Palermo’s renaissance does justice to its beauty, promise, and people.
Rooftops of PalermoThe Fontana Pretoria was built in Florence and shipped to Palermo some years later in the 16th century. Mores changed and the nude statues became scandalous.
