MY ODYSSEY

A cedar waxwing perched in the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens
I left an apartment in Brooklyn one year ago today, putting my possessions: cherished heirlooms, journals, artwork, and I suspect far too much clothing and other items in storage. All of which I have comfortably and conveniently lived without. If I get a tug of longing for something I “go Zen,” and remind myself that I am quite capable of doing well enough with what I have.

I have no permanent address as I write this. I do have two addresses however, homes of friends, that I use to keep my credit card company and the IRS content.

Having no address, to say I am “homeless” in our society elicits images of those living on the streets or in shelters-we are not a nomadic society. Every night I sleep in a bed, within four walls, under a roof, sometimes with a splendid view in an idyllic setting, sometimes less so. I settle into “my home” by placing my faithful and small Casio alarm clock, eyeshades and earplugs, the book or books I’m reading, on a bona-fide or makeshift night stand, arrange my toiletries-I rarely opt for a shared bathroom these days, and take everything else out, from my day pack and carry-on size bag, as needed. As far as clothing, I live in perpetual wash-and-wear cycle.

I may stay somewhere one night, one week, or at date the longest, six weeks in one place. However, I generally prefer between four nights and two weeks. There is always that chance that I will arrive somewhere and not wish to leave, but that has not yet occurred. I do not imagine being without a permanent home for the rest of my life and I trust my instincts to decide the when and the where.

I am grateful to live in the technological age where physical addresses can be bypassed and contact with loved ones easily maintained via email, WhatsApp, and Skype-of course nothing compares with an actual hug and face to face conversation. All important correspondence comes to me via email. Most of us rarely receive anything of importance in our mailboxes anyway. My bills are paid automatically.

There are those who live off the grid. I do not. I am living more on the grid than ever before. Traveling through various countries I use my credit card to pay for virtually everything and as countries in Scandinavia are moving to a cashless society this is becoming increasingly easier- there are no minimum amounts and although the Big Brother effect is alive and well: virtually every place I visit, eat at, sleep, every item I purchase is documented. I am not concerned. It provides me with an easily accessible record of my days.

To sustain my energy I spend some evenings-no matter how many things there may be to do and see in a particular place- at home, preparing a meal, reading a book, writing, or watching a film on Netflix (I was surprised to see that Paddington the bear was fluent in Norwegian until I realized that Netflix localizes its programming. I ended up choosing another film. I’ve never liked dubbing–even in animated movies.)

Each day is filled with new experiences and things to grapple with. Staying often in Airbnb apartments, I am continually looking to see where the owners put their silverware, dishware, pots and pans, and towels. And where I put the garbage. I have learned how to use several different models of convection stoves-a more challenging task than one might imagine. I negotiate the layout of villages, towns, and cities: where the nearest park, grocer, and desired sites are. I learn to navigate, when driving, narrow passages, windy roads, and major highways, and when not, the local buses and trains. I need to be particularly cautious in countries that drive on the left hand side.

I rely often, like Blanche Dubois in A Streetcar Named Desire, on the kindness of strangers.

It was initially daunting to not know my next destination–a virtually unlimited choice comes with its challenges–but I have developed the confidence to know that an idea will come to me. I do not fret if it’s the best decision, because inevitably there is no wrong decision. Even places which appear unappealing, with a bit of effort, reveal their charm. There is always some fascinating history to learn, a local to speak with or observe going about their day, a street/lane/path/meadow/coast to stroll on. At the very least I think about the people who call the place home and do my best to understand what living there would be like.

I am learning that travel is like knowledge: the more places I visit the more I realize the many places there are to visit and I have always had a thirst for knowledge.

I think of this journey as my odyssey.

PARIS

Chinese New Year’s Parade in the 13th arrondissement of Paris

The Eurostar from London to Paris was slowed to half its speed by an inch or so of snowfall. Having just traveled on a train during a blizzard in Norway, where we arrived on time, I was amused by the markedly different experiences. But to be fair, for both London and Paris snow is an infrequent occurrence. The warming sun quickly brought the pace of Paris back to its usual speed.

A rare snowfall and view of Sacré-Cœur, Montmartre

I spent a few weeks seeing cherished friends, visiting my favorite places, watching a Chinese New Year’s Parade, wandering through galleries and museums, and exploring a city I love.

A shop next door to the Orchid Show in the Jardin des Plantes
Jardin de Luxembourg: a park that never fails to delight me
14th c. Notre-Dame with its gargoyles and visions of Victor Hugo’s Esmeralda and Quasimodo
Chinese New Year parade
Chinese New Year parade with an array of dancers and spectators
The requisite dragon for the Chinese New Year
Fountain in the Jardin de Luxembourg
Parc de Belleville
Parc de Belleville: the highest park in Paris
Hotel de Ville
Hotel de Ville: the mayor of Paris Anne Hidalgo, the first woman to hold that position, has offices and lives here
Bliss: a young cyclist doing a wheelie in front of the Hotel de Ville
The late Mali photographer Malick Sidibé’s retrospective at Fondation Cartier focusing on the exuberant 60’s club scene there. Visitors were invited to stage their own portraits. The setup can be seen in the background.
The overflowing Seine after severe rain storms put museums near its banks on emergency alert
Performance art at La Halle Saint-Pierre: a converted covered market place now a modern art gallery, bookstore, and café
Playing with pigeons in the Jardin de Luxembourg
Crêpe vendor’s stall on the Boulevard Saint-Michel affectionately known as the Boul’ Mich
Parc de Belleville at sunset. The Eiffel Tower peaks out from the haze