SWITZERLAND

Niki de Saint Phalle’s “Guardian Angel” in Zurich train station

19 December 2018 – 22 January 2019

Going from Egypt with its share of chaos, to Switzerland with an abundance of order felt like stepping out of an “I Love Lucy” episode into “The Stepford Wives.”

Crossing streets in Egypt meant relying on your instincts, and moving quickly and carefully when the coast was clear. In Switzerland people wait for the signal to be green, even when no cars are coming,

I needed some time to adjust. And to appreciate the difference.

A friend had invited me to spend the holidays in her hometown, not far from Bern. I was very touched. Here I could catch my breath, share time with her and her family, and visit a country I had seen little of in the past.

Defining Swiss culture eludes me, but what is apparent is the national passion for skiing and spas.

Despite the winter months, snow in my friend’s hometown was scarce. But this did not stop people from skiing, they simply sought higher ground. Practically everyone in the smaller towns was geared up, carrying helmets and skis, and walking stiffly in their ski boots.

My friend, knowing my passion for swimming, treated me to several visits at a neighboring town’s pool complex with both indoor and outdoor pools. While she was busy with work, I welcomed the chance to swim–indoors, but the thought of going to the outside pool in my bathing suit is not in my DNA. Afterall it was winter. Admittedly, the dozens of people on the other side of the huge glass wall looked relaxed and happy.

On my second visit I got bold and walked through a thick plastic curtain cut in vertical strips, down some steps into the warm water of the outside pool. The design was perfect. Although the outside temperature was cold, I didn’t feel the slightest chill.

As the day eased into night, the clouds became pink, the sky darkened illuminating the stars, and the moon rose above the surrounding jagged mountains. My exposed face felt cool to the touch, but my submerged body was warm as I lay on a curved surface with headrest and jets of water massaged me. I admired the view and became giddy with delight.

My appreciation for Switzerland quickly soared. But cultural distinctions could not be overlooked,  like assuming the women’s shower accessed directly to the women’s locker room. I did some very quick maneuvering of my towel when I realized it was unisex.

My friends go to their mountain cottage as often as possible. I had the good fortune to go with them. The simple wooden cabin, with lovely furnishings and decorations offered complete comfort and a wood burning stove to keep us warm. At night, stars filled the sky and the silence of the mountains could make one forget that the rest of the world lay just beyond.

Holiday wreath on friends’ cottage
And part of the view
Inside my friends’ cottage

I cherish the boundless warmth and generosity my dear friend and family showed me, and the delightful time spent in their company.

There was also the opportunity to discover other regions.

A few of the many highlights:

Bern: When the clock tower strikes the hour, some figures begin to move and enchant the spectators.

Bern clock tower

Basel: I felt uneasy seeing magnificent creatures confined in a zoo, albeit looking very well-cared for, but also privileged to be in their proximity.

Basel zoo
Basel zoo
Basel zoo
Reflection of the moon
Basel zoo

There are far too many museums in Basel to see them all in a short visit, but the art I did see was a treat.

Fondation Beyeler
Jean Tinguely Museum offers its visitors surprises, smiles, and awe.
Jean Tinguely Museum
Niki de Saint Phalle was the wife and collaborator of Jean Tinguely. One of her pieces on the grounds of the museum is prominently displayed.
Jean Tinguely Museum
Jean Tinguely Museum
Richard Serra sculpture under a night sky

Montreux: The picturesque city on Lake Geneva

Montreux on Lake Geneva lies below and is completely shrouded in fog
The Golden Pass train to Montreux. Switzerland has four national languages: French, German, Italian, and Romansch. Train conductors switched languages easily.
Chillon Castle in the distance
Chillon Castle in Montreux
A statue of Freddie Mercury stands along the lake since 1996 commemorating his recordings and time here.

Susch: A tiny town is receiving world attention with a newly opened private museum.

A recently inaugurated private museum: a wealthy Polish woman’ vision realized. Its history both ancient and recent is fascinating.
Susch along the Inn river
Louise Bourgeois piece in the Susch Museum

Vals: Home to a otherwordly spa and part of an extraordinary landscape.

The Zerveilasee Dam and Reservoir near Vals
Icicles along a hike from Vals to Zervreilasee Dam and Reservoir
Vals
Sledding! back to Vals

The World Heritage transalpine railroad passed through a  winter wonderland to Tirano Italy:

Train route between Susch and Tirano
View along train route: Frozen lake and place for some adventurous ice sailing.
Tirano, Italy and last stop on the Bernina Train Route

It hadn’t taken me long to adjust and appreciate this beautiful country after all.

Fitting ornament on my friends’ cottage

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