Many years ago while traveling in Morroco I visited a hammam. They are always segregated by gender either by hours of operation or location and the luxury of design and accommodations, or lack thereof, can vary greatly from place to place.

A woman led me a few steps to a tiled anteroom where I was directed to remove my clothes and shoes, underwear was optional. It took me mere minutes, but for the native women wrapped in layers and layers of clothing disrobing was a time consuming undertaking. Despite the extreme outdoor heat, this tradition apparently was meant to keep them cool. I have no way of knowing if it succeeded, but I suspect ages of tradition, not unlike evolution, tend towards survival. I do know I sweltered under the oppressive sun in my thin dress. I put my belongings in a locker and was given a towel. I was the only foreigner there and had little recollection of the procedure despite a quick foray many years before in Paris. I was shown where to fill a pail with hot then cold water to comfort and cautioned of the slippery marble floor, conveyed without a common language.

The hammam had a few separate areas with differing grades of heat, neither too hot nor too cool. It was a place and time for women to relax unencumbered by the outside world. One could sit on a small stool or floor mat and the regulars came with their own brushes, loofahs, soaps, combs and cloths. I had thought to ask beforehand, so I had the basic necessities.The room was shared and the ambiance warm and communal, I watched the others and scooped the water from the pail with a cup guiding a cascade from the top of my head down along my body. The water fell in streams more soothing than a shower. They scrubbed, I scrubbed, they rinsed, I rinsed, they washed and combed their hair and I followed suit. The speech was low, ebbing and flowing, peaceful. I reveled in this privileged and tranquil domain. All was done slowly, there was no urgency in the motions and the cleaning was meticulous, thorough. For many this was a weekly visit, but for me I was hooked, and returned the next day.