[Bringing my travels up to date will take some time. For now I’m culling/organizing my photos and arranging chapters for future writings. As a result there is less narrative and more imagery. However you wish to view these posts: a quick perusal, a lingering glance, or a stepping stone to your own travels, I hope you will be no less inspired.]
Upstate (an admittedly relative term), specifically in the Catskills, has been my home on and off for weeks/months since my college days. I sought it anew and rented a home in Woodstock for three months. Covid restrictions were still in effect and long walks in the woods offered a particular allure. The quaint town retains a 60’s vibe which depending upon ones taste can enhance or lessen its appeal. But it, and the nearby towns, offer hiking trails, bookstores, fine dining, history, casual eateries, art galleries, live music, and country living in a stunning region.
Equipped with warm clothing (and crampons when needed ) I often spent my winter days walking amongst nature and my evenings by the fireplace at home.
But after a few months, as the weather warmed and the days lengthened, the road began to call my name. Although I'd hitched cross-country decades before, traveled along the East and West Coasts and visited a number of states here and there, I’d seen little of the Midwest.
I had a general idea of the route I wanted to take and began by heading up to Hudson, NY where I rented a car.
After a few days wandering around this lovely town and area, I made my way to Seneca Falls, another picturesque and charming town, rich with history of the women's rights movement.
Then on to Erie, Pennsylvania with its own interesting sights and history.
Seeking a place to stay a few nights and take a break from the road, I chose Kelleys Island, Ohio. Why? Why not. And seeing I had to take a ferry (a preferred means of travel) to get there was a plus.
Arriving in May, ahead of peak season when many people return to their summer homes, I rented a house and bike for three days/nights in a quiet residential neighborhood.
Although the island is less than five square miles, it offered a remarkable variety of views and terrain.
Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park, in Grand Rapids, MI is a haven for art and nature lovers.
Next stop: Sleeping Bear Dunes.
The Great Lakes are true wonders and their scope and breadth are remarkable. They not only offer stunning views with the sensation of being by the sea, but form the largest surface freshwater system on Earth.
There are a few things I learned about Michigan. Michiganders divide their state into the Lower Peninsula, “the Mitten" and the Upper Peninsula, the “U.P.” And the ubiquitous signs for “pasties" pronounced PASS-teez NOT like the nipple coverings, are savory pastries.
My curiosity of this beautiful state was piqued.
Heading up the coast of the U.P. I arrived in “paradise."
Paradise, MI was allegedly named not for any accuracy, but as an advertising campaign to attract settlers. Nonetheless it had plenty of appeal. Its museum, the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum was particularly fascinating and poignant.
During my travels I encountered people with markedly different political views, especially during the pandemic, but I also sought and found the many values we shared.
The area offered wonderful hiking trails, beautiful seascapes and landscapes.
Continuing along the coast I spent a few idyllic days in Grand Marais, MI.
And happened upon Lakenland, a fanciful sculpture park
en route to Marquette, MI with its own charm.
Then up to the northernmost part of the U.P.
I happily stayed five nights in Copper Harbor exploring the area.
With no reservations or destination I was hoping to find a cabin on the shores of Lake Superior. Driving a long ways with little luck I finally spotted a place in Ontonagon, MI. Lake of the Clouds Resort was a perfect fit.
For nearly a week I rented one of the few simple cabins (“Resort” was a whimsical choice) directly on the lake with a wide breathtaking view of both sunrise and sunset and went to bed each night with the sound of the lake lapping the beach.
And Porcupine Mountain with its extraordinary hiking trails was just a short drive away.
Farewell to Michigan. Hello to Wisconsin.
And a ferry trip:) to Madeline Island.
Minnesota was next. A night in a converted rail car was my first stop in Two Harbors.
Then up to Silver Bay.
Grand Marais, Minnesota, not to be confused with Grand Marais, Michigan offered its own share of beauty, history, and nature.
Grand Portage State Park abuts the Canadian Border which was unfortunately closed due to the pandemic restrictions, but there was still much to enjoy.
The Boundry Waters aptly named for its proximity to Canada offer splendid opportunities for kayaking, hiking, and canoeing.
It was a magical place.
Heading south I found a community along the Mississippi River (the river begins in northwestern Minnesota) with homes built for the area.
Then to Starved Rock State Park in Illinois for some more hiking and exploring.
And a quick ferry ride on THE Cassville Car Ferry from Wisconsin to Iowa across the Mississippi River.
Down Iowa through Illinois and Indiana I passed through small towns and open fields before being back in Ohio. Lots of driving unfortunately left little time for exploring and taking photographs—my car rental contract was expiring soon—but I did take some breaks.
The Allegheny National Forest in Pennsylvania was the perfect place for a picnic lunch before arriving back in New York.
Besides the many hours of driving, finding places to sleep could be equally tiring and time-consuming. But something always came up. And a few nights at the delightful Bainbridge House B&B in Bainbridge, NY where the welcome could not have been warmer was greatly appreciated.
I then passed through Downsville, Arkville, Catskill, and Athens
before arriving back in Hudson to return the car. On the train trip down to NYC I savored my many memories which linger to this day.
After a few weeks in Brooklyn I headed to France then on to Eastern Europe.
to be continued…
