NAPLES

May 02, 2018

Galleria Umberto I: 19th century shopping arcade

11 to 15 April

Any time I asked for directions in Naples, a discussion among the locals would ensue. I would be ignored until a consensus was reached as to whose directions were the best. Thinking it might be easier to ask someone standing alone proved to be no different: the man enjoined an acquaintance passing by to confirm his directions. I loved Naples. I felt as if I'd been transported back in time: mom and pop shops were thriving, street life was vibrant, cell phones were less visible, laundry hung to dry from nearly every window. The lack of tourists was refreshing.

Naples seemed more unruly than Rome, but also more genuine.

Street scene in the Stella(Rione Sanità) neighborhood

The contrast between the nineteenth century shopping arcades and narrow ancient streets was striking.

Galleria Principe di Napoli

Naples' Historical Center

The Capodimonte Museum and the National Archeological Museum collections were outstanding. The latter housed some of the finest treasures from Pompeii.

The seemingly endless hallways of Museo di Capodimonte

Museo di Capodimonte

Museum of Capodimonte

Statue of Apollo in the National Archeological Museum of Naples

And Naples has the sea.

Mount Vesuvius seen from the Bay of Naples

Food vendor on the Luongomare: seafront promenade

I spent the short time I was there wandering through neighborhoods, admiring treasures, thinking about Elena Ferrante, and enjoying a city I had visited many years ago that has seemingly improved with age.