I get asked, “What is it like to be a solo traveler?” Fortunately, when I want company there is rarely an occasion when it is not found.
As I headed to the highly recommended Nambillo waterfalls, a 5km steep walk uphill from Mindo, on a dirt road, I passed several lodges and places offering ziplining and tubing, clearly catering to tourists. There was no one in sight.
The walk up on the rough road was slow going with little to see given the thick foliage. And thus, as usual, with proper timing and chemistry, I met a perfect companion to pass the time.
A small terrier mix was standing by the side of the road. She seemed just as happy to see me as I her. She wore no collar, there was no owner in sight, and from that moment on never left my side during the ascent to the falls. She asked for nothing except frequent petting. I was happy to oblige.
When we got to the entry of the falls, I was greeted by some employees. “That’s our dog “Ruina.” I didn’t tell them that I had already started calling her “Milou” for Tintin’s faithful four-legged companion. She hadn’t minded at all. These men manned the “tarabita” (cable car, that traversed the ravine with a river far below to arrive at the waterfalls.) I asked if I could continue my hike of the falls with “Ruina” (a.ka. “Milou”).
They noted we made a fine pair.
“Milou” and I boarded the tarabita together with one of the men. I was more startled by the speed of this rickety looking transport than she. My companion was clearly an old hand.
The path was often wet, steep, and muddy but the falls were powerful and grand. If I stopped for a moment to take in the view, Milou would sit or stand by my side or lie down fullout for a quick nap only to bound up again when I took a step. And so it went for the next four hours. We walked, we relaxed, we offered each other affection and perfect company.
However, our parting came abruptly. As soon as we got back to the other side of the ravine, Milou’s meal was ready and she dashed off. Our bond only went so far. But we would meet again for another spontaneous meeting for a walk in the woods.