I look before sitting down on a public bench in town not wishing to sit on a sea lion. Few if any of the creatures here fear humans and mingle freely among us. They are well protected with strict laws and seemingly know it. The land, sea, and sky are havens for iguanas, dolphins, giant tortoises, whales, sharks, sea turtles, crabs, pelicans, finches, lizards, sea lions, fur seals, and hundreds of other species including the iconic blue and red footed boobies all flourishing in their natural habitats. The thrill never abates in seeing them all, many at nearly arm’s-length.

For two weeks I was on a 110 foot boat, with 12 to 15-mostly British and Australian passengers(they stayed for 8 or 5 days) exploring the islands:Santa Cruz, Isabela, Fernandina, Santiago, Santa Fe, Santa Maria, Española, San Cristobal, and Genovesa with an extremely knowledgable naturalist, gracious capitan and crew. It was a magical journey through stunning sea and scenery; an awe-inspiring encounter with the natural world.

Hikes and snorkeling, sometimes twice each day kept us fit, hungry for the three full meals and ready for bed at 8pm. It helped that the sun sets at 6pm. My nightlife consisted of moon and star-gazing, of the mostly Southern Hemisphere, while sitting on the bow of the ship, followed by the reading of Charles Darwin’s Voyage of the Beagle in bed.

Darwin traveled around the world (1831-1836) years before he would challenge age-old beliefs with his theories of evolution. His arduous travels reliant on ship, horseback and foot, and descriptions of “naked savages” tell of a world not yet 200 years ago which little resembles our own.

These last four days I’ve stayed in Santa Cruz, doing my best to keep cool. Days are sweltering.  So I ride a bike to Tortuga Bay for swimming, hop into the ubiquitous white pick-up truck taxis ($1.50 fixed price) when I’m feeling lazy-I’ll blame that on the heat, and take a water taxi to the beautiful Las Grietas across Finch Bay. Chatting with locals who are open and warm–in my error laden Spanish. I watch the sea lions sleep, flirt, snarl, play and caress each other.

Tomorrow I take a ferry back to Isla Floreana–an island with a colorful history of eccentrics and murderers–to stay for a week. It is described as a relatively primitive island: no cars, basic accommodations, one phone, no wifi.

To be continued…